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Stretched canvas is a very popular option for pet portrait artists as a support for their paintings. However, there are other supports that can be just as suitable when you don’t have any canvases to hand. Wood has traditionally be used as a support for oils and is one of the earliest forms of support for painting. But what’s the best type to choose? Your choice will have a bearing on how long your painting will withstand the rigours of the atmosphere. Here is a list of wood products and their suitability as a painting support.

Natural Wood
Oil paint can, in time, become quite brittle and any movement in the support due to changes in temperature or moisture levels can cause the paint surface to crack. Natural wood is especially vulnerable to this, so some precautions should be taken before using it as a support.

First off, whatever the wood, it must be very well seasoned, as any sap or moisture left in the wood will cause the panel to shrink as it dries out. The grain should be straight and without knots or signs of decomposition. To prevent warping, small panels need to be of a decent thickness, larger panels will need to be cradled. Cradling involves fastening two batons on the back, across the grain, which should run along the longest length of the panel. Ideally, these fixings should permit a small amount of movement, as wood will expand and contract with changes in temperature and a panel that is too rigid may split across it’s width.

The best natural woods to use tend to be hardwoods, well seasoned mahogany being best of all. Walnut is a dependable option, but can be attacked by woodworm. Oak, ash, beech, elm and chestnut are all acceptable supports if well prepared. Maple has a problem with warping.

Plywood
This has great strength and stability, but is inclined to warp badly. Better quality plywood with a least five layers should be alright on smaller panels and with cradling on the larger ones. The best ones will be made with veneers from the mahogany family.

Blockboard
Block board is similar to plywood though it has a more solid centre made from batons. This provides a panel less likely to warp than plywood but not as strong. Also, it does tend to be made from poorer quality glues and veneers. It also can be quite heavy in relation to it’s size.

Chipboard
This can also be known as particle board. This form of panel is fairly strong with effective stability. Uncovered edges can be easily damaged and is quite a heavy product, especially with large panels.

Hardboard
This is made with compressed wood pulp, has one smooth surface and a rough textured reverse side. It is a light, flexible and a stable support, but it’s flexibility will mean that smaller pieces will need to be properly prepared and larger pieces would, ideally, need to be mounted onto a frame. Bonding two sheets together back to back would also make a better panel. If you use the smooth side to paint on, it will need to be sanded to provide a tooth for the ground.

MDF
Medium density fibreboard (MDF) is made in the same way as hardboard, but is made of thicker sheets, creating a stronger board that is less likely to warp. The surface isn’t as smooth as hardboard, so can accept grounds easily. On balance, this is perhaps the best type of rigid support available for the pet portrait artist.